Each Culinary Artist Should Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.